Aboard the Jammu–Srinagar Vande Bharat: Tunnels, Bridges, Spectacular Himalayas and a Trip to Remember | Today’s news

On 17 May, the New Delhi–Jammu Rajdhani Express enters platform number 1 of the Jammu Tawi railway station at 4:50 am, ten minutes ahead of schedule. After an overnight journey aboard one of Indian Railways’ premier trains, we stepped onto the platform about half an hour before first light broke over Jammu, the country’s summer capital. Jammu and Kashmir.

A blue signboard hanging above a nearby staircase indicates platform number 6/7 — the departure point for the Jammu-Srinagar Vande Bharat train, the first direct rail link between Jammu and Srinagar, launched two weeks ago.

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Porters with luggage carts rush by, tea sellers call out to customers, and small groups of travelers clutching tickets and smartphones move briskly in one direction. For many, like me, my wife Mehnaz and children, Ibrahim and Mirha, it was more than just a train ride. It was part of the railway route that starts from Delhi and ends at Srinagarour hometown nestled in the Himalayas.

First ever train journey from Delhi to Srinagar

It was the first ever full train journey for me from Delhi to Srinagar since 2004 when my father sent me to Aligarh for my studies. On the occasions when I decided to avoid the expensive air travel home, I took the train to Jammu followed by a trip in taxis, mostly Tata Sumos during my good old days.

Not anymore unless I choose one just for the sake of it.

On April 30 this year, the Union Minister for Railways Ashwini Vaishnaw shut down the first ever direct train service between Jammu and Srinagar. The minister described it as “India’s first experience of operating railways at such high altitudes” and “a game changer for the economy of the region”.

Jammu Rajdhani reaches Jammu at 5 AM. And Srinagar Vande Bharat departs at 6:20 AM. Other Vande Bharat leaves Jammu for Srinagar in the afternoon.

Jammu Rajdhani reaches Jammu at 5 AM. And Srinagar Vande Bharat departs at 6:20 AM. Another Vande Bharat leaves for Srinagar from Jammu in the afternoon. (Gulam Jeelani)

We had already booked Rajdhani tickets from Delhi to Jammu. We added the Vande Bharat train to complete the journey once the booking opened late on 30th April. The agent helped me get the tickets.

First direct train from Jammu to Srinagar

Direct train from Jammu to Srinagar opened the only seamless rail corridor connecting Kashmir division with Jammu division. Earlier, there was train service from Kashmir valley only to Katra town, about 46 km from Jammu Tawi railway station in Jammu city. Until April 30, train passengers had to take a taxi or bus Jammu Tawi to Katra for the next journey to Kashmir.

Back at the Jammu railway station, after crossing the security check on the footbridge, we arrive at platform number 7, where the train — gleaming with its fresh saffron appearance — is already waiting to depart.

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The train left promptly at 6:20. The car was less crowded from the starting station. Ibrahim and Mirha decided to stay glued to the window. Water and newspapers were provided, followed by plain tea bags and a biscuit for boarding passengers.

The car was less crowded from the starting station. Ibrahim and Mirha decided to stay glued to the window.(Gulam Jeelani)

The train first halted at Udhampur before proceeding to Katra, Reasi, Banihal and finally Srinagar. A few passengers boarded at Udhampur, but by the time the train left Katra, the coach was almost full of families, tourists and locals settling into their seats and waiting for the scenic ride.

Most of the journey takes place over mountains. The train disappears into one tunnel after another – more than 36 in total – before briefly emerging on bridges suspended over deep valleys and rushing rivers on its way to Srinagar.

By the time the train slid into the temple town of Katra, Ibrahim, Mirha and the other children on our bus were restless with excitement, jumping from seat to seat in search of the perfect window view. However, the best view was for later.

A few minutes before the train arrives at the iconic Anji Khad Bridge — India’s first cable-stayed railway bridge — passengers start pulling out their phones, ready to capture the moment in Jammu’s Reasi district.

But the train is fast—sometimes too fast for the phone’s camera eye to fully absorb the surrounding landscape. Before one photo is taken, another tunnel engulfs the view.

Taller than the Eiffel Tower

After crossing the Reasi, the announcements begin again, informing passengers of the next landmark on the route – the iconic Chenab Railway Bridge, the world’s tallest railway bridge, towering even higher than the Eiffel Tower.

A blue signboard hanging above a nearby staircase indicates platform number 6/7 — the departure point for the Jammu-Srinagar Vande Bharat train, the first direct rail link between Jammu and Srinagar, launched two weeks ago.

Phones once again appear in every hand. Passengers try their best to get the perfect shot before the train passes by. However, for most passengers aboard the Vande Bharat train, the majesty of the Chenab Bridge remains difficult to fully comprehend from inside the coach.

From our windows we can see mostly vast valleys, rugged mountains and far below a narrow strip of river Chenab cutting through the gorge.

Breakfast is now served. Plates of poha, schnitzel and muffins on our tables. Ibrahim and Mirha turn their attention to the trays, visibly excited and amused by the muffins. The food was good enough to make us forget for a moment the disappointing dinner served the previous night aboard the 1AC New Delhi–Jammu Rajdhani Express, one of the most expensive train journeys.

The next stop is Banihal, long known as the gateway to Kashmir due to the historic Jawahar Tunnel, which cuts through the Pir Panjal mountain range and connects Kashmir to the rest of India via the Srinagar-Jammu highway.

Beyond Banihal, the landscape begins to soften. The train picks up speed as it glides past dense pine forests, untouched meadows and the vast tracts of Kashmir’s grasslands. In the distance, snow-capped peaks rise above the valley like a painted backdrop.

The car was less crowded from the starting station. Ibrahim and Mirha decided to stay glued to the window. Water and newspapers were provided, followed by plain tea bags and a biscuit for boarding passengers.(Gulam Jeelani)

Around 11:15 scheduled time on 17th May, Vande Bharat Express will arrive at Srinagar railway station in Nowgam, a 20 minute drive from our home.

Despite all the comfort and spectacle during the five-hour train journey, I still missed something – the tastes of the old Jammu-Srinagar National Highway.

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The train may have shortened distances and erased the uncertainty of road travel, but it can’t recreate the little rituals that once defined a trip to Kashmir for me: steaming noon chai at Banihal, the hearty rajma chawal at Peerah or the sweet, flaky patisa from Kuda.

An overwhelming response

The train is already a hit. According to government figures, it carried 45,000 passengers in its first 10 days of operation. Vande Bharat has proven to be a reliable lifeline for the region in all weathers, with weekend occupancy often reaching 98 percent, the government said.

The train may have shortened distances and erased the uncertainty of road travel, but it cannot recreate the little rituals that once defined the journey to Kashmir.

The extension of Vande Bharat to Jammu Tawi is a milestone in connecting the former state to mainland India through a rail network. The Kashmir valley saw its first electric train in February 2024.

We hired a car from Srinagar station and he dropped us at home.

Key things

• Vande Bharat Express significantly improves travel efficiency between Jammu and Srinagar, reducing travel time and improving connectivity.
• The journey showcases remarkable feats of engineering, including the world’s highest railway bridge, which enriches the travel experience.
• Despite the modern comforts, passengers long for the traditional experiences and tastes associated with the historic highway.