Ralph Lauren faces flak for 'stealing' Indian craftsmanship: What's the zardozi embroidery on a New York Fashion Week dress?

A dark pink evening gown with intricate embroidery that American fashion brand Ralph Lauren showed at New York Fashion Week caused a stir on social media, with users accusing the brand of not appreciating Indian craftsmanship.

On September 12, Ralph Lauren’s official Instagram account shared images of the gown, including a close-up of its embroidery. The caption read: “Covered in shimmering silk viscose and studded with hand-applied embellishments, the #RalphLaurenSpring2027 evening gown makes a cinematic statement.”

What is zardozi?

The post describes the fabric and embellishments, but does not refer to India or identify the craft used in the embroidery. The technique in question is zardozi, a form of embroidery that originated in Persia at least 300 years ago and later made its way to India during the Mughal era.

Fashion designer Prakhar Rao Singh Chandel raised the issue in a post on Instagram. He noted that zardozi has been registered in Lucknow and six surrounding districts since 2013, with approximately one million seventy five thousand artisans working in the cluster.

Chandel also criticized the wording used by Ralph Lauren, arguing that while the brand’s submission provided an elaborate description of the fabric, the intricate handiwork was reduced to a single reference to “embellishments”.

He also highlighted the last image of the Instagram post, which includes a quote from Ralph Lauren about how every garment has its own history and character. In response to this statement, Chandel asked, “Whose history? Whose character?”

‘Name it when you use it’: Designer challenges brands

Chandel accused international fashion brands of reusing Indian crafts without acknowledging their origins, which was followed by an apology only after the issue was publicly highlighted.

Referring to a similar controversy involving Prada last year, he wrote: “We already know how it goes because we watched it last year. Prada showed Kolhapuri-style sandals in Milan in June 2025 and the show notes called them leather sandals. India was named two days after the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce wrote on their board. That’s a tactic. Say nothing, don’t say anything when you take the app. Not when you get caught.”

Instagram users accuse Ralph Lauren of ‘stealing craft’

The controversy also prompted Instagram users to question Ralph Lauren’s description of the garment. Comments on the post included: “Start recognizing Indian art”, “Indian embroidery inspired by Indian crafts”, “Indian art and made by an Indian craftsman” and “Lol literally ornaments from India. Stop stealing crafts.”

Another user wrote: “Racism against Indians while actively stealing every part of their lifestyle, culture and the very core of their identity is a level of audacity that needs to be studied.”

A separate comment said: “Honestly – cultural appropriation is kind of off the charts this year.”