The physical space has changed, but the spiritual legacy of Ashura continues in the old district of Hyderabad

A Moharram procession passing through the old quarters of Hyderabad. | Photo credit: Serish Nanisetti

The Moharram passion play on the streets of Hyderabad’s old city brought an extra dose of gloom on Friday afternoon. The main road running between Aza Khan Zehr (built in the 1630s) to Darul Shifa (a hospital built in the 1690s) and on to Daira Mir Momin (a 16th-century cemetery) was nothing like it had been in earlier years, as buildings had been demolished, shops had moved and the roads were littered with debris.

The change is evident. “We used to cook food in the Niyaaz Khana (kitchen) attached to the building. But this year we have to cook in the open air,” said Rahim Khan of Act Public Welfare Foundation at the site. In earlier years, a processional elephant would enter the residence for residents to offer their dhattis for blessing. It was conducted in a provisional manner for the first time. Only a small part of Niyaz Khan, the wooden structure is still intact.

Mohammed Ali sits on a white plastic chair in front of Ashoorkhana Zainabi and points to a spot on the road to show the former extent of the property. “We installed this tin shed and cover for the ashoorkhana ten days ago. We came to the road,” he says, surrounded by construction debris.

A Muharram procession passing through the old quarters of Hyderabad. | Photo credit: Serish Nanisetti

Outside the 260-year-old Ashoorkhan Shahzad Ali Asghar, food is prepared on the go and served to everyone at the same time. The building lost part of the rear, which was converted into a shop. The procession remained noisy and crowded, with people jostling to touch the parade of alams brought out from the various ashoorkhans. It remained the same, albeit framed by a gutted city.

Darul Shifa Road used to be lined with raised pavilions in front of houses where people waited to make offerings. This year people stood on metal scaffolding in the middle of the road to do the same. “The religious buildings that have survived will soon be reduced to islands once the metro arrives. I can’t imagine what it will look like with a procession of maatams and elephants sharing space with the metro pillars and a train rumbling overhead,” says architect and historian Sibghat Khan.

Inside some houses, people looked out and waited for the procession. But instead of windows or balconies, they stood or sat on the ledges of torn out door frames and windows. “At least we could have kept the facades, but that opportunity too was lost,” says Mr Khan.

Muharram procession

A Muharram procession passing through the old city where the road for the Metro Rail has begun to be widened. | Video Credit: Serish Nanisetti

While the physical space for observing Ashura has changed, the people in black, patting their chests with their right hands and reciting the elegies of the Battle of Karbala have remained the same. GHMC and Water Board kiosks distributed water packets to wash away blood from self-flagellation. “We treated about 200 people with minor cuts. One person had a deep cut and we sent him to the hospital,” said Fátima, who set up a small medical facility to provide first aid and treatment to the injured.

Published – 26 Jun 2026 21:52 IST