Orissan tells the story of Odisha through food, culture and history
Alka Jena describes The Orissan (published by Penguin Random House India) as “a conversation between two generations”. More than a conventional cookbook, this recently released coffee table book celebrates Odisha’s rich gastronomic heritage by tracing traditions from temple kitchens, everyday families and archival information.
“We are often reduced to a handful of dishes or the Jagannath tradition when there is such incredible diversity in the state, from indigenous food and temple cuisine to coastal produce, traditional crafts, festivals, architecture and the daily life of the people,” says Alka, Deputy Director, Department of Planning, Planning and Convergence, Government of Odisha, who co-authored the book with father and daughter Sandip.
Pallavi Das at a local market in Orissa | Photo credit: Special arrangement
The project started unexpectedly in the summer of 2023 with a PowerPoint presentation, says Pallavi, who is based in the US. “I had this idea and I sat my father down and presented it to him as an executive proposal. But I knew even then that I didn’t want to simply write a cookbook; I wanted The Orissan to be something beautiful enough to be on the table, but meaningful enough to be passed down from one generation to the next,” she says.
The 350-page book offers chapters on Odisha’s history, culture, temple foods and recipes for starters, drinks, rice preparations, curries, festive puddings and sweets.
Pallavi (left) with Alka Jena | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Bridging the gap
With Alka based in Bhubaneswar, Pallavi in New York and Sandip in Gurugram, compiling the book involved several trips to Odisha, hours of research and virtual meetings. “The fact that we’re all in different time zones, different generations, different backgrounds and sensibilities really brought together the sense of perspective that graces the book,” says Sandip, 68, who comes with decades of corporate experience.
Pallavi and Sandip Das | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Pallavi adds, “My father brought history and his extraordinary curiosity about Odisha; Alka brought the knowledge of someone deeply immersed in its cuisines, ingredients and culinary traditions; and I often came to it as an Odia who grew up mostly outside Odisha, asking questions that the diaspora might ask.”
Pallavi adds, “I looked at books like Dark Rye and Honey Cake, books about Assyrian food and migration, and even spaces like Maison Premiere, where food, interiors and narratives create a whole world.” That stayed with her and also gave the team “permission to play with the presentation”. “We could take something as familiar as ghugni and think of it as a picnic food or explore the farm-to-table ideas that have actually existed in Odisha for generations without necessarily calling it that,” says Pallavi.
Pokhalo | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Urisha beyond food
While their journey as a team began with a Zoom call, things began to take shape when Pallavi visited Bhubaneswar in January 2025. “We started the morning at the Ananta Basudev Temple, a 13th-century temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, where we talked about bhoga and prasad and the remarkable ecosystem that surrounds them,” says Alka, adding that she visited the annual Pallavi’ Mella exhibition. celebrating the culture, crafts and products of Odisha’s tribal communities.
“Then I took her to Balakati in the suburbs of Bhubaneswar, famous for its traditional kansa or bell metal craftsmanship; Unit 4 Fish Market; Ekamra Art Gallery, where I introduced her to pattachitra; and visited several shops to taste our sweets: Pahala rasagola, chhena poda, kora khai.”
The 350-page book offers chapters on Odisha’s history, culture, temple foods and recipes | Photo credit: Special arrangement
“I grew up with the stories of Kalinga and our maritime traditions, but while researching the book, I began to look at them through the lens of food and that opened up a whole new perspective,” says Alka, adding how ancient Kalinga had thriving ports and a strong tradition of seafaring and trade. “I realized that food can be read almost like a historical document. A dish, an ingredient, a method of cooking or even a festival can offer clues to the landscape, livelihoods, beliefs and exchanges that have shaped Odisha for centuries.”
Sandip says Odisha’s origins in the temple kitchen and the influence it had on everyday Odia home cooking struck a chord with him. “Much mistaken as rural, the simplicity of Odia cuisine actually lies in its refinement and greater understanding of the seasonality of produce and nutrition. It boasts the skilled arts of fermentation (pakhala), steaming (dalma) and roasting in sal leaves (patra poda.”
Chingudi nadia rasa | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Recipe bank
When it comes to detailed recipes, Alka says Macha Haldipani made with fresh turmeric and buttermilk is close to her heart; Sarupatra Besara, which is her grandmother’s recipe with colocasia leaves; Sunday Mutton Curry, which brings back childhood memories; and chhena poda.
Sandip considers dalma to be the “queen of dal” preparations. “Another unique dal is habisya dali and santula is a simple mixed vegetable curry that is nutritious. I can’t resist even non-vegetarian Odia dishes like patra poda (raw fire-roasted meat wrapped in sal leaves), mudi maunsa (puffed rice and slow-cooked mutton), river soriso ilichachachachachachachpicha and mustard chaila anchovies),” he adds.
Chenapoda | Photo credit: Special arrangement
But perhaps the most important lesson for Alka was a personal one: “Our mothers and grandmothers carried the recipes, techniques and understanding of the seasons entirely in memory. Once a generation passes, the recipe can disappear.” This book, he hopes, can slow that process.
Priced at ₹5,999, the book is available online