Entering Jaatry, a special restaurant of the newly launched Center Taj Puri and Spa, feels like transporting to a beautifully created time capsule. The one who tells the story of Oish’s culinary herinary heritage and at the same time pays tribute to his combination of Southeast Asia.
Jaatra is located in Beachside Taj Puri Resort and Spa in the Zish Church City of Puri, celebrating not only food but a fascinating piece of history: ancient naval cruises of the Kaling Dynasty, which once combined Odisha with the distant coast of Southeast Asia. With a view of Bengal overlooking Bengal, the resort is a mixture of inheritance and indulgence, one of its most valuable features was the Jagannath Puri Yatra bike, obtained by the auctions after the Great annual Chariot festival. The architecture of the center draws inspiration from the style of Kalinga, with interiors created from traditional khondalite and lateite Stone. The space is layered by the artistic legacy of Odisha and is decorated with complex motifs of Pattachitra, Ikat ties and earthy terracotta accents.
Flavor
Executive chef Biswarup Chatterjee explains the octopus lollypop in the Jaatra restaurant in Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. | Photo Credit: Kr Deepak
When I settled in my place in Jaatra, I am attracted to a decoration that is a merger of traditional and contemporary. Above me, the ceiling is decorated with circular fishing baskets, a species that is still used by local fishermen in stagnant waters. The whole wall captures the complex maps of historical cruises and follows the ancient ways that Odisha and Bali, Sri Lanka, and then, almost 2000 years ago during the well -known Bali Jatra.
View of the Jaatra restaurant in Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Jaatra is a curator Roopali Mohanti, whose vision brought a secret to Puri, and chef Sabyasachi Gorai, her partner-in-book tests since their institute for the Kolkata Days Hotel, is a symphony of stories.
I will start my culinary journey with steamed Mand Pitha dumplings. Unlike the traditional sweet version filled with coconut and jaggers, the executive chef Biswarup Chatterjee gave a spicy reversal of meat based on soy, lemon grass and Kaffir lime. The texture is soft while the lemon undertone gives the brightness bite.
Squid Lollypop appears in the Jaatra restaurant in Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. | Photo Credit: Kr Deepak
Another comes Ayam Goreng, the Indonesian-Malaysian chicken bowl, reimaginated to give an interesting taste. It is served in a flattened rice next to the bean paste. The presentation is a visual tribute to palm trees that flow the coast of Odishiny, so it is almost too beautiful to eat. Then the chicken go. Bed in the Salski leaf, wood chicken is spiced with a delicate mixture of masala, each bite balanced side of cold cucumber and sweet mashed potatoes.
Followed by black and white chicken dumplings. These are chicken dumplings that hit the perfect remark between Indian heat and the spices of Southeast Asia. Each bite is a fragile but filled with taste, a reminder of how the boundaries blur when it comes to good food.
For the main course, I try Khmer Sea Bass Amok, Cambodian classic revived with lemon grass, basil, bird chili, coconut milk, ginger chrl paste, a hint of malt vinegar and sesame. The sea bass was steamed to the tender perfection and the broth is intoxicating and aromatic.
Jackfruit Kasa Bao is displayed in the Jaatra restaurant in Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. | Photo Credit: Kr Deepak
I’m also trying Jackfruit Kasa Bao. Here, the gentle jackfruit is slowly cooked and filled with Bao Buchty pillows, spilled defects chura (crushed lenses) and sharp mango chutney. It’s playful, earthy food, even if I miss fleshy flavors.
Chhatu mulligatawny goulash feels like a warm hug. It has mushrooms and tofu, served with fine string hoppers. Matile but light, spicy stew.
Chenapoda Chesecake appeared in the Jaatra restaurant in Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. | Photo Credit: Kr Deepak
How can I leave without a sweet end? The first one is the textures of coffee, the celebration of the Odisha Coffee. Crispy, creamy and intense at once is an ode bean. And then, in tradition, Chenapoda Chesecake. The rustic caramelized taste of the popular chenapoda odisha was reimaginated as a silky, fine cottage cheese cake. It is known, but a new, perfect metaphor for my experience in Jaatra. Soon, Jaatra will introduce a cocktail bar and a menu and add another layer to its evolving narrative about flavors and narration.
Open for dinner at Taj Puri Resort and Spa.
(The writer was in Puri at the invitation of the Taj Puri Resort and Spa).
Published – 2 May 2025 9:16
