An hour before sunrise, Vinu Peruvannan finally plays god.
Dressed in crimson black, he wears a heavy headdress studded with wild geranium flowers, his torso covered in ash, and he holds a mirror. His transition to Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam, the ferocious Thiyya warrior turned deity is complete.
This view alone makes my 488 km journey from Thiruvananthapuram to Kannur to experience my first ever Theyyam at the Sree Kathivanoor Veeran Temple, in Kavvaya, a 40 km bus ride from the city centre, worth it. The last leg of Kaliyatta Maholsavam, the large, multi-day, often three-year ritual festival of Theyyam, is underway, and luckily I get there early enough to find a seat.
Helpers from the Thalikaran Tharavadu, considered the avakashikal (heirs) of the temple, throw palm-leaf torches out of the room. Amidst the beats of the chenda, the artist shuffles menacingly back into the field, preparing to perform his tale of courage, heartbreak and rebellion. The chronicles of Kathivanoor Veeran, sung by two sidekicks that echoed through the arena all night, were now replaced by rapid drum beats.
Kathivanoor Veeran is one of the 456 theyyakolams (types of Theyyams) in Kerala, each rooted in a local myth. The Theyyams of North Kerala are between the 10th day of the Malayalam month of Thulam (mid-October) and Edavappathi (mid-June). “Over 1,000 Theyyam festivals are held in a season across North Kerala,” says Santhosh Vengara, a tour guide specializing in Theyyam tours since 2010. Every year they attract more and more tourists.
Each of these Theyyam performances includes rituals that celebrate local traditions – from fasting to performers returning to their “human selves” that differ in preparation and presentation. Although rooted in the caste system, the art form brings a temporary reversal of hierarchies, with artists from historically marginalized communities donning the roles of the gods, including the Vannan, Malayan, Velan, Mavilan, Panan, Pulaya and Anjoottan. Children belonging to Theyyam playing families start training as early as seven years of age and move on to play the main Theyyams.
In Pictures: Experiencing Theyyam in Kerala
Theyyam is performed only by men who transform themselves into gods, adorning their headdresses with colorful feathers and their faces painted in vivid colors.
They dance around the shrines to loud Chenda rhythms and cymbal sounds and bless the devotees.
The sacred ritual also includes walking on fire.
Theyyam performances are an annual ritual. Performers in elaborate crimson outfits mix Kalaripayattu movements and dramatic rituals.
Theyyam is a ritualistic art form, travelers are expected to respect local customs and traditions, which now include restrictions on photography.
Each of these Theyyam performances includes rituals that celebrate local traditions. Although the art form is rooted in the caste system, it brings about a temporary reversal of hierarchies with artists from historically marginalized communities.
The art form unites the physical and the metaphysical, unites man and God, takes place in an overwhelming multi-sensory experience.
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Vinu, an accomplished artist, is a member of the Vannan caste. He is known for his performances in films like Kathivanoor Veeran, Kandanar Kelan, Thottumkara Bhagavathy and Nedubalian Theyyams. As his transformation begins, he is surrounded by six artists playing the chenda and an entire village waiting for his heroic deed.
Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
The Story of Mandhappan
The Theyyam ritual begins with a thottam, a sung ballad that narrates the life of a rebellious Mandhappan who becomes a skilled kalaripayattu warrior. He marries Chemmarathy, who curses him in anger before the battle. Although he wins the match, he is ultimately betrayed and killed. Balan Peruvannan, a senior Theyyam artist and member of the Thalikaran Tharavadu, tells me the story, adding that “his body is said to have been cut into 64 pieces; in grief, the Chemmarathys jump on his pyre. And through death, Mandhappan becomes Kathivanoor Veeran, the deity.”
Witnessing Theyyam requires preparation—understanding the characters and their stories from a human lens rather than a reverent perspective. The art form unites the physical and the metaphysical, unites man and God, takes place in an overwhelming multi-sensory experience.
The thottam is followed by rituals called vellattam and payattu which may not be present in all Theyyamas. This phase represents the youth of the deity.
Kathivanoor Veeran during Payattu | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam blesses the devotee after Vellattam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Gurukkal Theyyam
Gurukkal Theyyam blesses the devotee during Velattam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
After the Kathivanoor Veeran payattu ends, another Theyyam – Gurukkal Theyyam enters the arena.
Gurukkal Theyyam during Mukhamezhuthu | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Gurukkal Theyyam between the coals | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Gurukkal Theyyam is believed to be the spirit of the skilled tantric minister Kunhiraman who was called to cure the illness of King Veeryakolath of Koodali. Legend has it that Kunhiraman Gurukkal was rewarded by the king for rescuing him and sent home with two bodyguards who murdered him out of envy. “It is said that Gurukkal’s books went back to the king and told him what followed,” says Balan.
Gurukkal Theyyam in final stage Photo Credit: Nainu Oommen
Kaliyattam, climax
The time is a few minutes after 1:00. “Get some sleep while you can before the kaliyattam (main show),” says Balan, reminding me that Kathivanoor Veeran will soon enter the arena. I decided to sleep on the temple floor, determined not to miss anything, only to wake up next to a few others – some of whom I identify as chenda players and helpers from the night before.
There is silence as Vinu transforms into a warrior god in the covered dressing room during his mukhathezhuttu (makeup and transformation). This goes on for four to six hours.
Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam during Kaliyattam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
During the Kaliyattam or climax of the performance, the artist’s transformation into God is said to be complete.
Devotees during Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam Kaliyattam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
At the same time, in an unsettling sight, devotees walk towards the lamp to pour more oil into the torch as an offering to God. A freshly lit fire continues to deteriorate, men and women (even carrying children) go to the fire as a sign of devotion. Parents carry their children to the border on one arm.
Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam during Kaliyattam | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Sword and shield in hand, Kathivanoor Veeran continues to dance around the exciting fire until the sun rises in Kavvaya. Aggressive movements subside as Theyyam mellows and blesses his devotees.
The rhythm of the ritual slows, but not for long. Two roosters are brought to the Theyyam for sacrifice. He breaks their necks — silence follows in the courtyard.
Kathivanoor Veeran Theyyam last told his life story | Photo credit: Nainu Oommen
Ritual performance
After the sacrifice, Kathivanoor Veeran stands before initiation and stands on a wooden stool. And for the last time, he is told his story of love, bravery, heartbreak and betrayal. Only a few helpers from the night before remain in the courtyard, including Balan, who are cleaning up the ashes from the arena. “Visitors often don’t stay for the entire festival, they miss the rituals like vellattam and other rituals before and after the main performance, for many it’s just about capturing the visuals,” says Santhosh.
As the rituals progress, the performer soon returns to his humane self, until his next divine evocation. “For us, the performance ends by apologizing to God for the mistakes we made during the act,” says Balan. He points out that these “gods” work in the off-season in professions such as carpentry, painting, and umbrella repair. He loaded the headgear and other trinkets for the next show into the car and says, “At the end of the day, we’re human.”
How to attend a Theyyam performance
Theyyam performances regularly occur in northern Kerala from mid-October to early June. However, he does not stick to a fixed schedule.
Performances are mostly open to the public and usually take place in sacred groves, ancestral homes and village shrines.
The Kerala Tourism website publishes a Theyyam calendar every year which lists temple locations, performance dates and contact details. Theyyam performance schedule is also available at dtpckannur.com
Travel agencies also offer travelers select Theyyam experiences starting at ₹4,000
